Postcards from Britain page 26

BRIDGE AND FORTRESS

September 2, 2007 Sunday

We stood at the end of Grooms' gravel semi-circular dive shortyly before noon. Sunshine poured down. The temperature was near seventy. In my backpack were umbrellas, extra clothing, and bottles of water. We had our kit on the ready to assail the City of London again. Syd Rutland cruised by in his red car, paused so we could jump in, and off we went to London Town.

After an hour of riding through the English countryside, Syd pulled into a wayside a few miles from Stastead Airport. He had brought along a picnic lunch and we had brought along our appetites, so it was a perfect match. From where we were parked in front of a grassy bank, we could see the panes soaring into the sky from the airport. Syd served lunch from the back seat. Tuna sandwiches and cheese and chutney (Marian's home made chutney) sandwiches, cold pork pie, and curried-lamb flavored crisps (potato chips) disappeared off our white china luncheon plates. We crunched fresh apples, and washed it all down with hot black tea. Lunch finished, we wiped off the plates, repacked them, and brushed away the crumbs. Then Syd climbed back into the pilot's seat and we were off again.

The ultimate objective was to witness the “Ceremony of the Keys,” the ceremonial locking of the Tower of London at ten o'clock that night. Syd had got tickets to the event for the three of us. Syd chose Sunday as traffic would be lighter and parking cheaper in London. He wanted to park in The Minories car park, just a block and a half from the Tower castle walls. He had called and been assured that a. there was a car park garage on The Minories and 2. It cost only two pounds a day.

Syd, as we've said before, knew London. He had worked and lived there for many years. He retired andmoved out of the bitg city to Tostock, and then to Bury. He does go into London now and again. In between his visits they change one-way streets, block off familiar streets with new buildings, put in a lane here, take out a lane there. We made the trip with TomTom. It did fine until London. Then it got lost, too. It sent us here and there, but not to The Minories. Syd turned it off and tried to find his way by memory. He gut us to the area of The Minories Street, but couldn't get on it. Bob and I had a great auto tour of London. Syd didn't enjoy it. He asked a van driver, then a cab driver. After a tirade about what a tangle city streets were, the cab driver gave Syd directions which got us to The Minories. That was progress!

But no car park in sight. We went up and down The Minories Street. Syd stopped at a the Minories Pub to ask for the garage, but they were closed. The third time around the block, coming down Mansell Street, we all at once spied a little blue and white sign, Minories Car Park. The Minories car park garage is on Mansell Street.

Syd wheeled in and got a space on the first floor. We hopped out. I shrugged on my good ol' L.L. Bean daypack, and we were off. That daypack, incidentally, spent a summer in Britain with me before, in 2003.

We had tentively thought to go to the National Museum to while away the time until we could meet for the Ceremony of the Keys, but by the time we landed, it was about to close. What to do?

I asked Syd if there was a pedestrian walkway across the Tower Bridge. There was. The bridge towered (sorry) avove the buildings just a few blocks from the parking garage.

Getting onto the bridge is rather strange, really. We walked alongside the Tower of London and then we wre walking on the bridge. The only transition was when bricks beside us gave way to water.

First, we poassed on a walkway under a high carved stone archway. In front of us was the first tower of the bridge.

I didn't even notice that arch at first. All my attention was given to the mighty Gothic castle rising before me. It was five or more stories tall, with stone pinnacles above that. There wre mullioned windows at each story. I could see lights through the long windows of an upper story.

“At least,” I said to Syd and Bob, “It's in use, and not full of empty rooms mouldering aay.”

We stopped to lean over and watch the river. As I looked left, I could see a small blue building stuck on the side of the tower at the walkway around its bse. There wre a number of people milling around. The word “exhitibion” or something like that was painted on the building. Exhibition! That's a magic word. We left off river-gazing and walked to the small blue building. Hooray, or Wow, or something. We could go to those tower rooms I so wondered about. For eleven pounds we could go by elevator to the top floor of one tower, corss the high walkway between the towrs, and come down through the second tower. We couldn't get out money out fast enough.

If you look at a picture of the Tower Bridge, you will see the tow main towers are connected at the top with what looks like a long steel gridwork. It's actually a covered wakway. The center span of the bridge between the towers is a split lift-bridge. When the bridge opened in the 1700s, pedestrian traffic across the Thames was not sotpped. People could simply climb one tower, walk across and come down the other tower.

The walkway was closed to the public when pedestrian traffic across the bridge gave way to cars. It had been all refurbished, dusted up, and reopened to the public again not long before we came on the scene.

Up we went. We stepped form the lift into the past. Those mullioned windows were even bigger than I had imagined. The towers are made of steel, then covered with decorative stonework. Huge steel beams rose and stretched around us. The stair rails had old-style wood carved spindles. Everything was painted and shining clean. There was a continual loop video on the history of the bridge running, and other static exhibits.

From that room, we ambled out onto the walkway high above the busy Thames River. The walkway was lined with static displays, model, and interactive video computers. The wayway grid is covered with glass, top to tottom. It's absolutely fantastic to stand there in front of floor to ceiling glass and watch the Thames. Rows of bridges stretch away upriver and downriver. Barges, pleasure boats, ferries, houseboats all floated on the river. Down just a ways from the bridge, the HMS Belfast was permanently docked as a museum. I could see people going up and down the gangplank to it.

We went off the walkway into the other tower and more exhibits on it than the first walkway had, more displays and videos. There were little platforms you could stand on to see and take pictures through the steel support grid.

From that walkway we were sent down, down, down stairways. Before we started, I looked down the open core of the ever-turning stairs. The cream-colored steps and brown banisters went down forever. I could see the bottom. When we finally got to the last landing, it led right into the Tower Bridge Gift Shop.

We made short work of the gift shop, and were on to the next exhibit. Blue footsteps painted on the pavement of the bridge walkway guided to the engine houses at the foot of the bridge. In them were the original steam-powered engines that lifted the bridge for centuries. There were rooms of engines, and comprehensive interpretive signage that led you through the process from coal off ships to steam through the pipes.

By the time we got out of the engine house, it was rushing toward dark. We needed something to eat. Syd took us back across the bridge to St. Katharine's Hospital, now St. Katharine's Dock. We went down steps from the bridge to water level, and into an upscale wharf area. Originally that area had been a hospital for the poor and pilgrims to religious sites. Hospital, as was used historically, was related to hospitality. A hospital was an inexpensive lodging for pilgrims and travelers.

St. Katharine's Dock was elegant, with huge historic sailboats sitting in front of upscale condos. But it was poor in restaurants for the likes of us. We looked at the menu prices for one, and passed on our way. We found another whose chalk-board menu looked reasonable, went inside, climbed stairs to the restaurant, to find it closed. By then is was truly dark. The area around the Tower of London is a business district. It was pretty deserted on a Sunday night, and restaurants were closed. We walked here and there, but nothing to eat. We'd been on our feet for hours. We got to feeling rather desperate.

The both Bob and Syd saw a sign about a subway restaurant, with an arrow pointing back toward the Tower of London. I missed the sign. I followed them across the streets and down a walk. There it was. Steps going down into the ground from the sidewalk. We raced down them (at our geriatric speed), hoping, hoping that the restaurant wasn't closed. It was still open. It was a Kentucky Fried Chicken. Kentucky Fried Chicken underground at the Tower of London! To finish off the international flavor, the little girl who waited on us was an oriental with such an accent that we could hardly understand her. It took a while, but we finally got a meal ordered. We got a combo chicken bucket for four, with drinks.

It was an attractive restaurant. The walls were red brick, the floor was a dark green tile, and the woodwork a golden shade. We were just so eternally grateful to sit down that for a while we just drooped in our booth and waited to be fed. We went into attack mode when the food showed up, though, and the three of us finished off that bucket for four in jig time.

We wanted to use the toilets, but the cleaning woman had them barricaded and wouldn't let us in.

“No come in. No come in!” she shouted at me. We appealed to the gal behind the counter, and she came back and brusquely told the woman she must let us in to the toilets.

When we had relieved ourselves, Bob went over to the cleaning woman where she was mopping the floor. He apologized for our making extra work for her. Syd and I joined him. The woman was older, very worn and tired looking. Her spoken English was limited, but she could understand it better. Bob asked her where she was from. She was from Serbia. She had to work two menial jobs because she hadn't enough English to get a good job. She was grateful for our interest in her, and smiled and waved when we left.

We still had some time to kill, so we walked along the Thames on a riverside promenade. The lights on the river at night were beautiful. Private and commercial boats were like sparkling ghosts on the dark waters. I took some time exposure shots of the Tower Bridge and the Tower of London. Soon it was the appointed hour to meet the warden at the gate to the Tower of London. Only twenty tickets to view the ceremony are given out for each night. Every night, for six hundred years, this ceremony has taken place.

We were met by a Yeoman Warder in medieval costume. He gave us an outline of the ceremony, and how we should behave. He was a jolly fellow, and fun. Once the ceremony began, though, we were on strict behavioral rules: no talking, no cell phones, no pictures, no noise of any kind. We were to be invisible spectators. The timing is very strict, and the ceremony is scheduled to the minute.

We were led silently up to the Tower Gate. Our warden was challenged. He answered the challenge and took us inside the fortress, where he signaled us to stand against a wall. There wasn't much light and everything had a mysterious air.

I can't give you the ceremony step by step. I don't remember that. But there were challenges and counter-challenges as various gates were locked, shouted commands and guards marching back and forth and doing ceremonial turns. A squad of guards marched the Keeper of the Keys to the last gate inside a hollow square.

"Who goes there?" the sentry demands.

"The Keys." answers The Chief Warder

"Whose Keys?"

"Queen Elizabeth's Keys."

"Pass Queen Elizabeth's Keys. All's well."

They marched back. It was all timed to end at exactly ten o'clock. The gate was locked, and trumpets sounded the Last Post from somewhere beyond us inside a courtyard just as the clock struck ten. It gave me goose-bumps.

We were silently led out a side gate. The ceremony was over for another night.

THE FINAL DAYS

September 3, Monday

We took the 10:30 local bus into Bury again, and walked through town to Syd and Marian's house. Syd had the computer all set up for shows. Marian made a spot of tea, and we all sat together and looked at photos of Syd's trip to South Africa in August. He left for Africa the day we and our kids left Bury for Cornwall. It's always fun to take a vicarious trip somewhere and since he and Marian had been to South Africa several times, they could give us background beyond what the photos showed.

After the picture show we put on our jackets and strolled down the street and around the corner to the Rose and Crown pub. We'd never been there before, didn't even know it existed. It was a quaint little old-fashioned neighborhood pub, small and intimate. There we enjoyed a relaxing lunch together.

A very old man sat at a table next to the bar, all alone, and sipped a brandy. He listened to us, and every now and then he'd interject a comment. He was ninety-nine years old, he told us. Did we think he'd make one hundred? He had another brandy; we entertained him so much. He had been alone in the pub when we came in. Apparently he came to the pub every day, sat for a while, had his brandy, and socialized.

On our way back to Syd and Marian's home, we stopped into a wine merchant's shop, Peatlings. The ground floor store had wines, wine glasses, and other merchandise relating to wine. We wandered around, and Marian told me that you could rent wine glasses from Peatlings. She had done so on occasion. I never heard of that, but what a help that would be! Syd went down the stairs to the basement cellars, and one by one, we all straggled down after him. The cellars were such fun! There were wooden cases of wines stacked in rows. There were elaborate and expensive gift boxes of special wines. There was a small arched cubicle with a barred gate on it. The bottles racked behind that gate were covered with dust and bore price tags that made my eyes water. I took a picture. That's the closest I'd ever get to wine of that class.

Back at the Rutlands, we gathered around the computer again. This time we relived and relaughed a trip the four of had made together in 2003. We had rented an apartment together in Florence, Italy, that summer, under the Tuscan sun. We delved into the arts and lived on wine, olives, cheese, and daily fresh bread for a week.

Then it was time to say good-bye. They took us back to Sandlappers in Tostock. We watched their red car disappear down the road. Who knows when we'll see each other again.

We climbed the stairs to “our” room at Sandlappers, did some packing, and freshened up. Margaret and Lionel were freshened up, too, and we four set out for an evening. We had thought to go back to the pub in Hesset, but then Margaret suggested the Pykkerell Inn in Ixworth. It was a good choice.

There was an ancient fireplace next to the bar with horse brasses along the timber mantel and a stuffed deer head above. One of the dining rooms I peeked into looked like the library. The walls were lined with wooden shelves full of books. We were seated next to an old wall oven. A line of copper saucepans hung above. The warm woods and traditional furniture made for what I call, “homey elegance.” We had white linen on our table and a smiling lady to serve us.

The food was good and the company was good. We joshed and told stories, laughed and chatted the hours away. But we did have to watch the time, as we had a date back in Tostock.

The Tostock History Society was meeting that night, and the speaker was going to talk about airbases in Suffolk during World War Two. Bob and I always enjoy joining in on local events. Jean, the Church Warden, also led this meeting. She was a busy lady. We and Lionel were a bit disappointed in the speaker; it wasn't what we had expected. Bob and I enjoyed meeting and talking to the local folk, anyway.

The rest of the evening was spent in the family room watching TV, reading the papers, and chatting with Margaret and Lionel. We had spent most of our evenings at Sandlappers that way, homelike and relaxed.

September 4, Tuesday

Tuesday morning we were faced with another good-bye to good friends. Perhaps I should say “au revoir,” instead. We invite all our British friends to Florida, and some of them have taken us up on it and come over for a visit.

After breakfast we climbed into Lionel's car in the front drive of Sandlappers, and left Tostock for Bury St. Edmunds and points west.

We took a National Express coach for our last six-hour ride from Bury St. Edmunds back to Manchester and Moss Deepings Bed and Breakfast. Greg Banks of Moss Deepings picked us up at the airport as usual. We spent the evening going through our luggage one more time, discarding clothes, maps, and brochures we would no longer need. We had to work into our luggage a bag of books and souvenirs we had left at Moss Deeping in July when we came back to the B&B to meet Lisa and Gordy's flight.

September 5, Wednesday

Low clouds covered the sky when we walked into the village of Bramhall from Moss Deeping to run last-minute errands and have some lunch. It had rained all during breakfast and half the morning. I wrote Postcards on the computer, and Bob read until the rain let up.

We went back to the little café where we had eaten when in Manchester in June. I had got some wonderful home made soup in June. There was no soup that day. So we each had a pannini, which was good, too. We did our errands, can't remember what they were, now, but we were busy right up until four in the afternoon, tea time.

When we were in England some years ago, we met and visited the son, Tim Miller, of one of our English friends, Tim's wife Gill and daughters Jenna and Rachel. They live in a Manchester suburb within walking distance of Moss Deepings. It was they, in fact, who found Moss Deepings for us. We had hoped to spend an evening with them this trip, but the timing was wrong. Tim had to be out of town and the others were busy.

However, Gill and Jenna met us after school at a coffee house in Bramhall. We sat there and chatted for almost two hours, catching up on the years and the family, until they had to leave for Jenna's dance lessons. It was great to have at least made contact with them, and to see them again.

We had a tea in our room for supper, read a bit, and climbed into bed.

September 6, Thursday.

The Banks set out an early breakfast for us, then Greg took us to the airport.

We flew with Virgin Air, the British airline. If nothing else, Virgin feeds you well. It was an eight-hour flight from Manchester, England, to Orlando, Florida. Shortly after getting on the plane, we were served pretzels and a choice of drink, including wine.

A couple of hours later we got our main meal of the day. I ordered a vegetarian casserole, and Bob had chicken tikka. We also were given pasta salad with feta cheese, a roll, chocolate pudding, a bottle of water and a glass of wine, crackers and cheese. A true English dinner.

In mid-afternoon, so to speak, we had an ice cream bar. Time is relative when you're going backwards five hours.

Then, before we landed, we had a light supper of a sandwich, a big cookie, and coffee or tea.

With our dinner wine, we turned to what we thought was the east, raised our glasses of wine, and toasted a merry summer in Merrie Olde Greate Britaine.

TOUR GUIDE
Page 1

Leaving Home
England to Scotland

Page 2

Scotland
Oban
Isle of Mull
Isle of Iona

Page 3

Isle of Mull, Scotland

Durham, England

Page 4

Durham, England

Holy Island, Wales

Page 5

Holy Island, Wales

Manchester, England

Warwick, England

Page 6

Warwick, England

Stratford-upon-Avon, England

Page 7

Blenheim Palace, England

Page 8

Bury St. Edmunds, England

London, England

Page 9

Newquay, England

Page 10

Newquay, England

Page 11

Newquay, England

Page 12

Newquay, England

Page 13

Newlyn, England

Page 14

Penzance, England

Page 15

Bath, England

Page 16

Bath, England

Page 17

Bath, England

Page 18

Bath, England

Canterbury, England

Page 19

Canterbury, England

Page 20

Tostock, England

Sites in Norfolk, England

Page 21

Along the North Sea

Bury St. Edmunds

Page 22

France

Page 23

France

Page 24

Back to England

Cambridge, England

Page 25

Tostock, England

Bury St. Edmunds

Page 26

London, England

Goodbye to Great Britain

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